The Église Saint-Joseph-des-Carmes Paris, France 1620

The Church of Saint-Joseph-des-Carmes is a Roman Catholic church situated at 70 rue de Vaugirard in the 6th arrondissement of Paris in the heart of the Séminaire des Carmes (part of the Institut Catholique de Paris).

Paris is full of little treasures waiting to be discovered. I have been traveling to Paris for over 20 years and still discover little jewel boxes like this little church just from walking around last Summer. The Eglise Saint Joseph des Carmes was constructed for the Carmelites from the reform by Saint Terese of Avila when they came to France after the death of King Henry IV, at the request of Pope Paul V. They were greeted by French Queen Marie de Medici in an open area by the Rue de Vaugirard, and the queen laid the first stone for the new church here on 20th July, 1613, however, the work was not completed until 1620. Yet even after completion of the first Italian built dome in Paris, with the help of funding from several large families related to the Carmelite order, this church in Paris was not dedicated until 21st December 1625. 

This church and property had a tempestuous history during the French Revolution. This church on the rue du Vaugirard, built between 1613 and 1620, took on a totally different role and was the scene of horrific events, because in the August of 1792, the church was turned into a prison for refractory priests who had refused to swear allegiance to the Civil Constitution. More than 160 priests were detained at the church. It was the site of a massacre of between 110 and 120 priests and bishops on September 2, 1792 (part of the September Massacres) after fifteen days of captivity. All executed with a knife in the garden, and the relics of these martyrs are honoured within the crypt under the church.

The clerics had refused to take the oath of allegiance to the republican Constitution. The future Empress of France Josephine and her first husband Alexandre's lives were literally turned upside down during the Reign of Terror that followed the French Revolution, due primarily to Alexandre's ties to the nobility. He was arrested on March 2, 1794, and guillotined on July 23, 1794. Since she too was a member of the nobility, Josephine was arrested on April 21, 1794, and imprisoned in here at the Carmes prison until July 23, 1794. Josephine de Beauharnais,  wrote on the wall of her cell: “Liberty, when will you cease to be an empty word? It’s seventeen days now that we have been locked up. They tell us we will get out tomorrow. But isn’t that just a vain hope?” She was saved from the guillotine by the overthrow of Robespierre, just one day before her scheduled execution. 

The Carmelite nun, Mother Camille Soyecourt, purchased the church and convent in the 19th century after the French Revolution had well and truly finished and began a restoration project to return it to its former glory.

The facade was rebuilt in the same way as before and the two niches house statues of Saint Teresa and Saint Joseph, plus the crypt also holds the tomb of Blessed Frederic Ozanam, who was the founding principal of the conferences of Saint Vincent de Paul.

In 1612, Pope Paul V requested Queen Marie de Médicis to accommodate the Order of Discalced Carmelites in Paris. The queen provided lodging for them in the Hôtel de Valles and then built a church on the side of the rue de Vaugirard, then at the southern limits of the city. Construction began in July 1613 and was completed in 1620; the church was consecrated in 1625. It was the first church dedicated to St Joseph in Paris.

The Italian Baroque architectural style is fascinating for many, yet the history of the Eglise Saint Joseph des Carmes, is also what makes this one of the unusual tourist attractions in Paris, and people are freely allowed to visit this church, which is now classified as one of the historical monuments in Paris.

A beautiful 19th century stained glass window of Saint Veronica's Veil. 

Masses are still held at certain times on certain days, such as at 12.15pm on weekdays from September through to July and during the week, the Blessed sacrament is he tabernacle of the Chapel of Saint Anne.

The high altar was ordered by Chancellor Pierre Séguier in 1633. The carvings were the work of Simon Guillain and François Anguier. The altarpiece was given to the convent of the Discalced Carmelites by Queen Anne of Austria in 1624; it was painted by Quentin Varin and depicts the Presentation in the Temple.

Beautiful 18th century carvings 

The cupola is embellished with a painting of Elijah on the chariot of fire painted in 1644 by Walthère Damery, a painter of Liège. This was the first painting on a cupola in Paris in the 17th century.

18th century crystal chandelier 

Facing the altar and looking to the right, one sees a 19th century copy of the famous bronze statue of Saint Peter, believed to be a 13th Century work by Arnolfo di Cambio. Pilgrims traditionally touch and/or kiss the foot and it was quite striking to see how well worn it is. 

The Chapel St Jack, St Louis and St Dominic.

Founded in 1635 by Jacques d'Estampes, lord of Valencay, dedicated it to his patron saint, to the one of his wife (Louise de Joigny) and the one of his son Dominique.

The painting is from Abraham Van Diepenbeeck (1596-1675) artist from Antwerp and disciple of Rubens. 

The walls and ceilings in the Chapels have there original painted and gilded carvings panels dating from the 17th century. 

The walls and ceilings in the Chapels have there original painted and gilded carvings panels dating from the 17th century.

Martyrs of St Joseph Carmelite.

1789 the French Revolution. The Church of France is powerful, but needs to be reformed. The lower clergy wants a fair distribution of ecclesiastical revenues and also that the higher clergy is not only reserved for the nobility. In an attempt to bring order and fairness in the Church, the Constituent Assembly voted in July 1790 the "Civil Constitution of the Clergy": priest and bishops become elected officially and are payed by the state.

Before signing this law, the King, reluctant, requests the opinion of the Pope. In the absence of response from him, the King ratifies the text in December 1790. The secular clergy who accepts oath are called "sworn in". The others, the "refractories" who refused are removed from office, without revenues, clandestines. Spring 1791, the Pope announces his disagreement. Some of the "sworn in" are retracted and joined the "refractories", knowing the risk of jail or deportation. Fortunately, the King can protect them thanks to its veto. France declares war to Austria and Prussia in April 1792. French troops are poorly equipped, trained, framed. These defeats lead to the "Proclamation of the Fatherland in Danger". August 1792 the Tuileries are taken and the Royal family is imprisoned. Arrests of the "Enemies from the inside" (supports to the monarchy) long threatened by Marat will soon be practiced at a breakneck pace in August 1792.

The "section of Luxembourg" (one of the 48 sections comprising the "Administrative Division of Paris") is one of the most revolutionary and violent. The Carmelite church depends of it. Every day, the church sees a contingent of priests arriving. Arrests and detentions are held at night, under the boos of the people, who consider the "non-jurors" priests as enemies of the Nation.

Within days, one hundred and sixty prisoners are gathered in the church, without beds, food, awaiting the arrival of the executioners. Their are in complete poverty until authorization is given to allow some of the faithful to come to their aid. The fear of epidemics provide allow them the freedom to go out into the garden.

In the Assembly of Legislature, Tallien transmits the will of the City to purge the Nation of the "disruptive priests". They try to fool the prisoners by talking about deportation but no one is fooled. All confess and renew the promise not to swear allegiance to the Civil Constitution of the Clergy.

On September 2, 1792, the call to arms from the Commune aggravates the situation for the priests. Promenades, visits are forbidden, surveillance is doubled.

At 4 pm, the order is given to prisoners to go in the garden. Armed with spikes, several madmen invade the Carmelites shouting "Death to refractories". They massacre all priest refugees in the oratory of the garden.

About one hundred and ten victims die in less than two hours. Some bodies are thrown into a common grave in the cemetery of Vaugirard, others into a well in the garden of the Carmelites. In 1867, the bones found in the well are placed in the crypt of the church. These martyrs were beatified in 1926.

The walls and ceilings in the Chapels have there original painted and gilded carvings panels dating from the 17th century.

The Church's Pulpit Podium or Lectern. 

The 19th century organ. 

The present altar was rebuilt (it was damaged during the Revolution) in the nineteenth century by Alexandre Lenoir, who inserted a beautiful bas-relief that we will see further down this page.

The altar is composed of four columns of black marble and topped by a representation of the Eternal Father, in the clouds and surrounded by angels.

The central panel tells the Presentation of Jesus Child in the Temple. It was commissioned by Anne of Austria in 1624 and painted by Quentin Varin, master of Nicolas Poussin.

This painting, made especially for this church, is a real beauty. Mary, standing on the right, shows her child to Simeon moved says "with my own eyes, I have seen what (God) you have done to save your preople and foreign nations will also see this (Luke 2:29). Joseph stands behind Mary. On the left, a veiled woman: the prophetess Anna.

Do you see the woman sitting at the bottom left with her two children? Anne of Austria is represented here with two children that she hopes to have (the painting is from 1624, the future Louis XIV was born in 1638).

All of it is made in a space built in. The great arch of the painting seems to echo the real vaults of the church in which we are standing.

The bas-relief comes from the Abbey of Maubuisson, both parts framed the right and left are in the Louvre.

This one was also damaged during the Revolution and was reconstructed from the former by Alexandre Lenoir. The altar and the statue of the Virgin and Child were designed by Bernini (around 1655).

“Virgin and Child” by Antonio Raggi (1650–51), after Gian Lorenzo Bernini

Church of Saint Joseph des Carmes

Of course the first thing that catches the eye is the dome. First dome mounted on a "drum" in Paris, made of wood and plaster, with a diameter of 9.40 meters. It is an evocation of the glorious descent of Carmel. It was the work of Bertholet Flémalle, a painter for Liege, disciple of Rubens. 

“Virgin and Child” by Antonio Raggi (1650–51), after Gian Lorenzo Bernini

Church of Saint Joseph des Carmes

Here we see Elijah taken up to heaven in a chariot of fire and hosted by angels. The story continues in the vertical section of the "drum". Elisha, disciple of the prophet, tries to catch the coat of Elijah that flies in the air. The effect of the coat is so well done, we could almost believe that Elisha will fall trying to catch it up.

Wonderful Italian Baroque style in this church. 

The carved and painted details are just amazing! 

The walls and ceilings in the Chapels have there original painted and gilded carvings panels dating from the 17th century.

The Chapel St Jack, St Louis and St Dominic.

Founded in 1635 by Jacques d'Estampes, lord of Valencay, dedicated it to his patron saint, to the one of his wife (Louise de Joigny) and the one of his son Dominique.

The painting is from Abraham Van Diepenbeeck (1596-1675) artist from Antwerp and disciple of Rubens. 

The walls and ceilings in the Chapels have there original painted and gilded carvings panels dating from the 17th century.

The walls and ceilings in the Chapels have there original painted and gilded carvings panels dating from the 17th century.

The Chapel St Jack, St Louis and St Dominic.

Founded in 1635 by Jacques d'Estampes, lord of Valencay, dedicated it to his patron saint, to the one of his wife (Louise de Joigny) and the one of his son Dominique.

The painting is from Abraham Van Diepenbeeck (1596-1675) artist from Antwerp and disciple of Rubens. 

In addition to these, guided tours of the church and crypt are also available on a Saturday at 3pm, which are completely free and are run by a team of volunteers from the Art, Culture and Faith Association.

During the week, access to the church is through the Catholic Institute of Paris at 21 Rue d'Assas, whereas on a Saturday evening and a Sunday the entry to the church is at 70 Rue de Vaugirard.

When it comes to the tours, the rendezvous point for these is also at 70 Rue de Vaugirard, and there is a booklet available upon request to discover even more.

And even though the actual Catholic Institute along with the Musee Bible et Terre Sainte and the Musee Edouard Branly museums are all closed during the academic holidays and the summer months, the church is still open during weekdays in this period.

Now if you are utilising the public transport in Paris, then the nearest Metro station is called rennes via line 12 followed by the St Placide stop on line 4.  Then you have the Sulpice stop via line 4 and Sevres-Babylone Metro station serving lines 10 and 12.  However, the bus numbers 58, 83, 84, 89, 94 and 96 will also get you close to the Eglise saint Joseph des Carmes church.

Plus there are numerous other tourist attractions in Paris that you can visit, which are located close by in the 6th Arrondissement, like the Musee Hebert, the Musee du Compagnonnage and the Jardin du Luxembourg, which is the fabulous garden in Paris by the Palais du Luxembourg palace and the museum.

Address and Contact Details

Eglise Saint Joseph des Carmes
70 Rue de Vaugirard
75006
Paris
Ile de France
France

Tel: +33 (0) 1 45 44 89 77